In this season’s Parisian catwalks for autumn-winter 2023, Demna designed elongated dresses with heightened shoulders for Balenciaga. Junya Watanabe showcased post-modern biker looks, and Matthew M. Williams presented fluid or ethereal bodycon evening dresses. The streetwear trend appears to be waning from the Parisian fashion scene for the upcoming autumn-winter season.
This Sunday marked Palm Angels’ debut show in Paris, where Francesco Ragazzi, the Milanese expert in luxury streetwear, introduced a more tailored version of his label. Set in the Palais Cambon, juxtaposing ultramodern vertical screen installations against illustrious marble columns and moldings, the Palm Angels woman seemed to have traded her mix of prints, oversized wool jumpers, and logo T-shirts for a more refined Parisian chic aesthetic. Navy blue or black jackets and coats were slim-fitting and worn with minimal layers, perhaps just a triangle of transparent silk or a gold necklace. Trousers also adopted a tailored and snug silhouette, paired with heels for an elegant and slender look. Businesswomen in Palm Angels opted for strict officer-like suits.
The stricter Palm Angels aesthetic expressed sensuality through leather looks, predominantly in black. Coats and jackets featured clean edges, adorned with buttons, zips, and gold strings. Leather extended to tight trousers, long skirts, and leggings paired with a velvet mini-skirt and a deep purple leather and faux fur jacket. Full leather ensembles also made an appearance in red and white.
The deliberate shift in silhouette marked an important moment for the brand, part of the New Guards Group. “Coming to Paris this season, it’s an important moment for us,” explained the designer. “It’s important for a global brand to be able to evolve. We wanted to push our women’s offer much further, but also the way we make the products. It was clearly a challenge for the whole company, but I think we succeeded.”
While Francesco Ragazzi embraced change, he didn’t entirely forsake his signature codes. Men’s looks, including leather, long coats, and intricately detailed silk tracksuits, maintained a streetwear vibe, often paired with white sneakers featuring the palm tree logo. For women’s looks, many models wore hoods as part of their outfit, resembling neckbands that disrupted the formal silhouettes. The hoods displayed a Parisian address: 127 rue Saint-Honoré.
The address represents the future location of the brand’s flagship store in Paris. Pieces from the collection prominently featured this address, including a multicolored down jacket with a large palm tree logo on the back, a velvet men’s tracksuit adorned with shiny studs, a leather jacket, and a unique hoodie. The plethora of pieces dedicated to the flagship store indicates that its opening will be a major event.
Beyond clothing, Palm Angels will likely offer sunglasses and gold jewelry in the shape of a small palm tree, captivating the attention of consumers
