NYFW’s Finale: Who Decides War’s Genre-Defying Elegance and Willy Chavarria’s Serious Sophistication

On the final day of New York Fashion Week, Who Decides War and Willy Chavarria stole the spotlight with collections signaling a promising evolution in style.

Who Decides War: Politics As Usual

Under the theme ‘Politics As Usual,’ Who Decides War’s seventh collection paid homage to the vibrancy of New York City, drawing inspiration from its music, diversity, and distinctive style. Everard Best (Ev Bravado) and Tela D’Amore, the creative couple behind the label, successfully captured the essence of the city. The runway showcased a diverse audience, including notable figures like Heron Preston, Jim Jones, Juelz Santana, June Ambrose, and more.

Who Decides War fall/winter 2023 – Who Decides War

The couple’s mission extended beyond aesthetics; they aimed to break free from a specific target market. D’Amore emphasized the expansion of genres, ensuring a sophisticated direction that caters to a broad audience. The collection featured innovative interpretations of the brand’s core motifs, such as the stained-glass window motif, embroidery, and shredding. Notably, the stained glass took on new forms, appearing as cutouts, patches, and flap-like cuts across various garments.

Collaborations with brands like Adidas and JakisChrist added an extra layer of uniqueness to the collection, showcasing tricked-out Superstars and goth-influenced designs. The show, held in the historic Angel Orensanz Foundation, resonated with the brand’s ethos, combining the characteristics of a synagogue and cathedral. The atmosphere reflected the brand’s New York roots, drawing parallels with Alexander McQueen’s first show in the same venue.


Willy Chavarria: ‘Kangaroo’ CollectionWilly Chavarria’s runway show, held at the Cooper-Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum, marked a shift to a more serious and mature tone. The collection, named ‘Kangaroo,’ drew inspiration from a This Mortal Coil song, reflecting the somber mood of the current climate. Chavarria aimed to create a serious and mature collection, showcasing his evolution as a designer.

Willy Chavarria fall/winter 2023 – Willy Chavarria


The all-black lineup featured monastic robes, velvet pieces, sheer chiffon shirts, and high-waisted pants with built-in cummerbunds, catering to black-tie occasions. Chavarria challenged gender norms, blurring the lines between male and female fashion, presenting a singular collection free from gender specificity. The serious and elegant tone of the collection highlighted the designer’s commitment to appreciating the present moment amidst the chaos of the world.

Chavarria’s decision to remove color from the collection symbolized a desire to cut through the noise in the fashion industry. The deliberate choice to showcase an all-black lineup communicated a clear and clean message, distancing the brand from the perceived messiness associated with contemporary American fashion. NYFW’s finale showcased two brands, Who Decides War and Willy Chavarria, pushing boundaries and embracing a new era of sophistication and creativity.

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